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You are > Home > Gettiing to the root of Tomato Probllems
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03 August 2005
Gettiing to the root of Tomato Probllems
I USED to think that all tomatoes were simply coloured bags of water. That is until the likes of ‘Sweet 100’ and ‘Gardeners Delight’ came on the scene some years ago.
These cherry tomatoes have a decided old-fashioned taste whether eaten straight from the plant or cooked as part of a meal, and for that reason they soon became a top favourite in my home.
The only drawback with growing your own supplies of either cherry, standard sized, or beef-stake tomatoes is that they need constant care and attention.
A wide range of pests and diseases find the tomato an ideal host yet most growers find the fascination and thrill of watching tiny green pinheads swell into bright red fruits a delightful experience and rewarding pass-time. I wish more would follow their example!
Diseases and disorders are much more important than insect pests, and it is these that cause confusion to the amateur. For that reason I put before readers, the causes and remedies for the six most common complaints affecting home-grown tomatoes.
Leaf Roll: Unlike potatoes, rolled tomato leaves do not indicate disease but a wide variation between day and night temperatures. The inward curling of young leaves is usually taken as a good sign (provided they are dark green) and there is no need to take action.
Spilt Fruits: This is a common complaint with both indoor and outdoor grown varieties. It is caused by heavy watering following a period of dryness. Skins harden during warm, bright and sunny days but when a sudden increase in water is then applied, these split. No treatment is necessary apart from keeping the roots evenly moist.
Blossom End Rot: This condition is most often found where growing bags are used and is again symptomatic of uneven watering. Leathery, dark-coloured patches occur at the bottom of the fruit spoiling it entirely. No treatment can be given save more regular watering especially when the fruits are swelling.
Dry Set: When the air in a greenhouse becomes too hot and dry, and pollination is still taking place on upper trusses, the fruitlets fail to swell. They remain the size of a match head and no amount of coaxing will stir them into growing bigger. No treatment can be given except to mist over the plants with clear water each morning and evening.
Greenback: Common in varieties which have been around for decades, greenback manifests itself as green, hard areas around the stalk, whilst the remainder of the fruit reddens and ripens. There’s no treatment available but avoid further spoiling by shading the greenhouse during very hot, sunny weather. Cherry varieties seem to be resistant.
Yellow Leaves: Yellowing between the veins of tomato leaves indicates a magnesium deficiency, and it can be eliminated by applying Epsom Salts (half ounce to pint of water) in spray form to the leaves. Prevent further outbreaks by feeding with a fertilizer containing magnesium.
Under average conditions, the first amateur-grown tomatoes will be ready for picking during the first week in August. Harvesting can continue up to October at which time all large and reasonably sized green fruits should be picked and stored in a tray in a drawer.
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